As a gift for my husband's 40th birthday—following my own surprise trip to Mauritius in late 2015—we embarked on our first family adventure to Asia. Our kids (ages 10.5 and 13) experienced significant jet lag (4.5 hours), but it was worth it.
We flew Emirates with a layover in Dubai: 3 hours outbound and 1 hour 50 minutes return. It's a long, tiring trip. We left our Paris apartment at 6 p.m. Friday, arriving in Colombo Saturday at 4:30 p.m. local time. By 7 p.m., we reached our first stop—a guesthouse 40 minutes from the airport in Negombo. Darkness had fallen, and all we wanted was sleep.
Pro tip: Buy your Sri Lanka visa online days before departure. On arrival, cash in rupees only—no credit cards after customs.
We prioritized quality over quantity. Sri Lanka is large with narrow, winding roads, city traffic, and mountainous terrain—distances are measured in hours, not miles. Hilly landscapes are stunning, but we spent plenty of time in the car. Looking back, skipping some stops was smart; we even cut a few more.
Week 1: Road trip with a private driver/guide (tourists can't drive—once there, you'll understand why). Week 2: Family beginner surf lessons in Weligama Bay near Mirissa, chosen for its gentle waves.
Here, I share only our top recommendations. This trip was self-funded—no sponsorships.
Our nearly teen kids thrived: cultural immersion, spicy food they enjoyed, eyes wide open to new smells, tastes, and realities. WiFi (spotty but present) kept the 13-year-old happy. For toddlers, I'd hesitate—the long drives, no car seats or back belts in our minivan, and kid-friendly but intense vibes. Sri Lankans adore children, but we saw few young families on the road trip; more at the beach.
February was ideal: sunny 30°C days (never too hot), two half-days of rain on the south coast. At 2,000m elevation, 20°C felt perfect. No sunburns (La Roche-Posay SPF 50+ and Decathlon UV tees essential for surfing). Avoid August's crowded Buddha Tooth procession in Kandy—traffic is bad enough normally.
Instant culture shock: tuk-tuks, buses, micro-cars honking amid roadside life—pedestrians, dogs, homes, fields, fruit stalls. Fresh coconut, pineapple, passion fruit, mini-bananas for cents.
En route from Negombo, stop at Pinnawala Elephant Orphanage. Tourist trap with chained elephants, but river bath at 2 p.m. wows.
Traffic-clogged Kandy must-sees: Peradeniya Botanical Garden (60 hectares, sublime).
Bats at the garden.
Nearby: Natural Coffee for refreshment and WiFi.
Also: Batik workshop, gem museum (skip), cultural dance show (fire walkers!).
Detour to Kitulgala for 1-hour rafting, lunch, Bridge on the River Kwai site. Stunning waterfalls.
At 1,900m: Colonial vibe (Grand Hotel), Gregory Lake (boat rentals), Victoria Park playground, market.
Tea factory tour, then 3rd-class train to Ella (book ahead; 2.5 hours, touristy but scenic).
Little Adam’s Peak hike through plantations. Nine Arched Bridge.
Family Ayurvedic session. Next: Lipton’s Seat in Haputale (tuk-tuk up, walk down).
Kalus Hideaway: Pool, playground, spa—arrive early!
Elephant orphanage feeding. Dawn safari in Udawalawe National Park: elephants, buffalo, peacocks, crocs.
Peacock.
Crocs.
W15 Hotel: Beachfront, great food, surf school access (they lend boards).
Lunch spots: Froggy (pizzas, lassis), Nomad Café (veggie brunches, juices), Dulnetha (rice & curry).
Weligama fishing boats.
Little surfer.
Mirissa.
Weligama.
Travel agent: Isabelle from Vers le Monde. Listen to our trip on the Family & Travel blog podcast!
