As seasoned family travelers from Paris, we chose Verdun and Bar-le-Duc in the Meuse for a weekend getaway rich in history. While Normandy or the Loire châteaux often top the list, this eastern French gem offers profound experiences. After exploring the Côte d’Opale earlier, we headed east for this enlightening trip.
History—with a capital H—was our draw. Verdun’s World War I legacy is essential for our children, now old enough to grasp its weight.
We departed Friday afternoon for a smooth 3-hour drive to the charming Au Lévrier d’Argent guesthouse. We stayed in the cozy “Granny” and “Nicolas” rooms—super comfortable and peaceful.
The welcoming owners treated us to an exclusive Saturday morning tour of Bar-le-Duc’s Upper Town, sharing its architecture, history, and anecdotes under glorious sunshine.
Family-friendly activities in Bar-le-Duc: Stroll the walkable town, grabbing the “Where is Firmin?” treasure hunt (ages 8-12) from the Tourist Office. The protected Upper Town hides treasures like this 15th-century seigneurial press:
Visit St. Peter’s Square and St. Stephen’s Church:
Discover stunning inner courtyards:
View the modern Lower Town from the castle:
Lunch spot in Bar-le-Duc: “O Club Gourmand” offers mini-golf to entertain kids. Don’t miss the local specialty: redcurrant jam seeded with a goose feather, available at Maison Dutriez.
Drive the historic Sacred Way to Verdun—once a grueling 3-hour soldier’s march amid fear.
Exploring Verdun with kids: Get the cost-saving Battlefield Pass for key sites: Verdun Memorial, Douaumont Fort and Ossuary, Vaux Fort, and Underground Citadel.
Adult Pass (16+): €25 (vs. €34)
Child Pass (8-16): €15
Free under 8.
We began at the Underground Citadel, its eerie atmosphere hitting immediately. Ride small wagonettes (9 max) through dark galleries with triggered scenography narrating a soldier’s story—daily life, hardships, and officer dilemmas under bombardment. Walk the final stretch to a poignant recreation of the 1920 Unknown Soldier ceremony for Paris’s Arc de Triomphe.
Perfectly preserved with dim lighting, it vividly evokes wartime conditions.
The Verdun Memorial, a modern WWI museum, captivated us for hours (arrive at opening for crowds-free entry). Covering strategy, daily life, weapons, vehicles, and poignant letters/photos from both sides—balanced, informative, and moving without overwhelming.
The iconic Douaumont Ossuary—with its rows of white crosses—conveys the battle’s toll. Chilling walls of engraved names and a compelling 20-minute basement film deepen understanding post-museum.
Fort de Vaux: Amid peaceful greenery, uncover soldiers’ harsh realities—profoundly impressive.
End sweetly with Verdun sugared almonds from Maison Braquier. Yum!
Far from depressing, this green, reclaimed landscape inspires reflection. Vital for our kids (unlike my school’s Rome trip), it’s a trip we’ll repeat elsewhere, like Normandy’s beaches. Perfect timing near the Armistice centenary.
Thanks to the Meuse Departmental Tourism Committee for the invitation.
